Riflessioni

As I reflect upon the time spent with Prof. Nagy, Alessia and Frankie conducting research in Calabria, I can’t help but feel honoured to have been a small part of this project.

It all began on a snowy day. As I was transcribing away in the LVC Lab at the University of Toronto, I received an e-mail from Prof. Nagy about a Summer Excursion Program. A few months later, though the snow had not yet melted, we were already looking for students who would be interested and eligible to come to Calabria to conduct research. Soon after (or so it seemed), flights were booked, and, recorders in hand (-luggage), off we went to the toe of the Stivale!

Not only am I glad that my being “indigenous” to Calabria was helpful to the project, but I am extremely flattered that my culture and language of birth were the focus of this research – thanks to Prof. Nagy’s interest in the Calabrese community (both in Italy and in Toronto), my people’s voices will now stand still against the powerful hands of time, stored away safely in the halls of knowledge of the University of Toronto.

Between pizzas, tiramisù, and calamari, we were able (under the expert guidance of Prof. Nagy) to construct a unique corpus of sociolinguistic interviews, which will certainly contribute not only to our personal research, but to that of many (or few) researchers interested in my humble people and our language.

I am confident that this experience has added greatly to my personal academic journey (and that of Alessia and Francesco, who worked much harder than I did), and I will carry fond memories of these few weeks spent bridging my native and adoptive cultures and delving further into the wonders of the land that I am now more proud than ever to call my first home.

Un abbraccio calabrese a tutti!
Paolo Frasca

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Serata Calabrese at Popilia

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Piscina dei Dei, Popilia

With research in Calabria making excellent progress the HLVC team is beginning to feel truly Calabrese. Our fieldwork was able to grow with a night of typical Calabrese food, music and desserts hosted at Popilia Country Resort in Maierato; a neighbouring town. With a band in full swing playing traditional tarantellas we were able to note that the culture and traditions were still appreciated by the new generations. Here are some photos from the night!

pepperoncini

pepperoncini

The stereotype of hot pepper put in everything was still alive as even desserts had their kick.

The night was spent in good company even meeting some of the Callipo family.

Gelateria Callipo

Gelateria Callipo

gli ospiti eleganti

gli ospiti eleganti

l'équipe a tavolo

l’équipe a tavolo

aspettando da mangiare, un altro bel tramonto

aspettando da mangiare, un altro bel tramonto

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Carte e Café: The Ultimate Guide to Daily Life in Sant’Onofrio

After a plate of pasta, a glass of wine and a pissolino (nap) locals usually head over to the local bar for a cafe and a game of cards. If you want a better understanding of daily life and culture in a small Calabrese town like Sant’Onofrio, your best bet is to find yourself at one of the towns five bars during or after siesta. Thankfully we’ve made great friends with Onofrio, the bartender at “Bar Vecchia Sud America”. On a typical week day you’ll find Onofrio serving at the bar, and some kids playing gettoni near the back, but out on the patio is where the real magic happens. Onofrio’s uncle whom I refer to as “Il Professore” thrives off of playing cards. Opponent after opponent, game after game, Il Professore never seems to lose his spot at the table. We really had no idea what we were getting ourselves into when we had made the “appointment” for a card game with Il Professore. The following Monday we had our first match, and it was great. A card game isn’t about winning or losing, it’s about the interaction and passing of time amongst good company. The official language used in any card game is Calabrese, no if and or but’s, queste sono le regole. Topics usually include: what everyone had for lunch, politics, calcio (not too different from politics) and if the weather would be nice enough to go to the beach. A funny moment in my experience here in Sant’Onofrio actually occurred earlier today; Il Professore was sitting out on the patio, and me unaware of the time (it was 11 30) asked him if he wanted to play a game of cards, to his utter shock he responded ” ma angora un e mezza juirnu”(it’s not even 12 yet). Some of the unspoken rituals I have yet to master I guess.

Sunrise to Sunset

This week the HLVC team was dedicated and motivated by their fieldwork. Finding numerous locals to chat with we are truly becoming part of this community and are now recognizable. How many people can say an entire town knows them by name? Now entering our final week in Sant’Onofrio, with our work keeping us focussed, we made sure that the natural beauty around us did not go unnoticed. We enlisted two locals to come and witness the beauty that is the sunset and to our surprise it was the first time they truly stopped and watched the spectacle. At a loss of words, a rarity for many Italians, we sat and watched reminding ourselves of how beautiful the world is.
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Modern Calabrese Music Concert

Lovely evening at Stonehenge to hear Farragonia, a band that plays updated versions of Calabrese (and other southern Italian) traditional songs and styles. Mini tours of the music of Sicilia and Apulia as well as Calabria. Not the greatest environment for photos, but you can probably hear them on their Facebook page.

We especially enjoyed the emotional rendition of Calabria Mia (lyrics, and as performed by Mino Reitano).

Le musiche a tavola

Le musiche a tavola

The band, and the 3-year old drummer

The band, and the 3-year old drummer

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Pasta night a casa HLVC

It was pasta night at the HLVC headquarter’s here in Sant’Onofrio. I had the daunting task of feeding two very hungry women. Both watching my every move as I began my short but nerve racking stint in the kitchen. With a fridge full of groceries and a small yet surprisingly functional gas stove, I decided to make Pasta Bolognese. The pasta was accompanied with a cucumber tomato bufala salad that was  just imported in from Campagna. I had a certain confidence in the kitchen that I only acquire when I find myself in Italy. With this confidence I was able to create a dish that would give even the nonna’s of Sant’Onofrio a run for their money. Dinner was a success. The HLVC team was now able to sleep with the comfort of knowing that there would be no need for that daunting “midnight snack”.

5 good “interviews” = 1 beach visit

We are making excellent progress. Every 5 good recordings earns us an afternoon at the beach. Today’s pictures show a little “fieldwork” (quite literally) and a little “après” — Paolo took us to beautiful Tropea, with a beautiful beach tucked under the cliffs, and gelato and funny t-shirts up above.

 fieldworkers in the field (a Stefanaconi)

fieldworkers in the field (a Stefanaconi)

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pizza oven on the farm

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cliffs above the beach at Tropea

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the beach fromt the cliffs20140716_193530 Tropea’s church

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Tramonto Tropeano

 

Finding the right words on the first day

Jet-lagged but happy, we made it to the beautiful beach at Pizzo, Vibo Valentia, in time for sunset and these most apt words.

Questo mare è pieno di voci e questo cielo è pieno di visioni. Ululano ancora le Nereidi obliate in questo mare, e in questo cielo spesso ondeggiano pensili le città morte.... Read more at: http://www.classicitaliani.it/pascoli/prosa/pascoli_poeta_lingua_morta.htm

Questo mare è pieno di voci e questo cielo è pieno di visioni. Ululano ancora le Nereidi obliate in questo mare, e in questo cielo spesso ondeggiano pensili le città morte….
Read more at: http://www.classicitaliani.it/pascoli/prosa/pascoli_poeta_lingua_morta.htm

Alla spiaggia di Pizzo